Thru Hull Drain Replacement

[SAGE9]

So I patched the hole in my transom using marine sealant. Was an easy fix. I bought the marine tech but opted for the easy fix since I waited until a Friday and wanted to go out the next morning.

Thanks again to all those with advise.

Anyway - I have an 89 Grady White Overnighter with plastic thru-hulls. One of them is cracked and the likely source of +/- 5 gallons of water entering the hull (since transom is now patched) each time I go out (I trailer the boat). Does anyone have any experience with this boat or with changing out thru-hulls? Seems the space is very tight and not accessible at all without getting the saw out.

I really appreciate all the help provided from this board.

Many thanks.

[DaleH]

You confuse me a bit when you say "thru hull drain" ... want to make sure we're bothin thinking of the same thing. Do you mean a garboard drain like below that's located at the rear bottom center of the transom?
http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/7-2366.jpg
If so, a replacement stainless steel models can be had on-line for ~$15. Brass ones are ~$10 at stores, while a naval bronze model can cost > $30 at stores (eBay has an alleged cast bornze one for < $10 here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4623050530&ru=http://motors.search.ebay.com:80/4623050530_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ1), but I can't speak to its quality. I wouldn't opt for the cheap brass ones if I were you, as a brass alloy doesn't last too long in marine applications.

Now thru hulls are something different and yes, Grady's do have a reputation for using plastic thru-hulls that do breakdown over time. My brother just replaced a few on his '87 Grady and yes, they can be a bear to get to.
http://a1672.g.akamai.net/7/1672/116/20060601/www.ritzcamera.com/graphics/boatersworld/products/359290152.jpg
Boater's World, West, and Walmart usually carry the thru-hulls in stainless steel, which would be my choice and I'd seal them with 3M 4200. Attwood is selling one that is cast 316L SS (which is THE premium grade of SS for marine use) and I think my bro paid $17 each or less from them.

It is better to stick the t-hull in place and turn the fastener up snug on the inside of the hull, but again, access to these can be brutal :eek: ! In that case, see the little indents on the exit of the t-hull? You'll need to make a "wedge" to turn the t-hull from the outside and use a tool on the inside to hold the locking nut inside still, well gooped up with 4200 too. PM me if you get stuck ...

[SAGE9]

Thanks. These are small drains in the deck just in front of the pedestal seats. Seems like the run straight down and then take a 90° turn out through the hull. Fish boxes may connect in to the same line too.