Teak Products

[eastcoast617]

I've never had to clean teak before, but I'm helping someone else out. What products do I need to clean teak?

Thanks

[DaleH]

Most Mfg'rs of boat store products (Star Brite, etc.) make a 3-part kit consisting of a teak cleaner, brightener, and then the teak oil. Teak has some peculiar properties you should be aware of and for best results, the pieces should be completely removed (see precautions below).

If you need to rub the wood (I'd only use a scotchbrite pad, plus a block) you want to have the wood well wet and go against the grain lightly to clean/brighten, and then very lightly with the grain just to clip off any fibers that rose. Rubbing with the grain can cause "furrows" to form in the teak where dirt had impregnated some fibers, but not all. Wherever teak turns darker will be areas that are softer than the surrounding wood, so that's what causes the uneveness (sp?) in the surface.

Unless the teak is old and has been neglected, you should not have to sand it. But when sanding, unfortunately you'll need to go with the grain, so be sure to always use a block so you're less apt to create furrows. Done properly and then maintained thereafter, you should at most only need to do that sanding step once. I recommend you "wash" the wood with acetone prior to the oil or varnishing step.

If your friend is interested in some serious brightwork that looks FANTASTIC, sand/clean (acetone) as needed, then apply 3 coats of Sikkens Cetol Marine Light, then 3 coats of Raka epoxy, and then 3 coats of Interlux clear varnish. The color and gloss brightness has to be seen to be appreciated. Done in this manner, only the varnish gloss topcoat ever needs to be retouched. The varnish is to simply protect the epoxy coat from UV exposure. Completely sealing the teak (even at screw holes) with epoxy keeps the finish intact. Once every 2 seasons, or "when" you see the varnish topcoat cracking, buff the cracking and gloss off the piece with a scotchbrite and apply 1-3 coats of the varnish, as your season allows, but get it back to 3 coats of varnish before the next complete exposure season. Yes, this takes a bit to setup for the 1st season, but the finish is amazing. I'll post some pictures of the finished results once I get some digital photos taken.

FYI - these teak cleaning precautions come courtesy of Boat/US:
Teak Cleaning Tips
* Most teak cleaners are not detergents - many contain strong acids or alkalis such as oxalic acid, potassium or sodium hydroxide, or hydrogen chloride in varying strengths designed to do the tough job of cleaning worn and weathered teak.
* Use them with care (not all products are properly labeled!)and they may cause chemical burns on skin or eyes.
* They can also damage other materials in your work area, lift paint and varnish, mar fiberglass surfaces, destroy anodizing on aluminum, and etch chrome fittings.
* When handling teak cleaners, wear rubber gloves, keep a hose handy, and always thoroughly flush the area where these chemicals are used.
* If skin contact is made, flush with running water.
* Consider wearing goggles to protect your eyes from being splashed.
* Avoid fumes, which may irritate eyes.