Refinishing Mahogony?

[JakeFF]

Anyone have any suggestions as what I should use to refinish the mohogany on a classic whaler?..thanks for the help.

[Markymark]

The way the dad used to do it was,
1. sand it,
2. clean it or wipe it down with acetone,
3. 1 coat of varnish sealer,
4. a coat or two of marine grade varnish.
When he did it and after it was done,(after the old ChrisCraft) you would be drooling when you looked at it! Whenever that boat was tied up in the slip,people would stop and STARE ,and admire the wood!

[JakeFF]

Thanks Marky...sounds like a plan...do you know what he used brand name of sealer..varnish?

Sounds exactly what I'm looking to do..thanks.

[nattybo]

you can also use a number of oils that you don't have to put 8-10 coats of varnish on unless, the wood is already varnished.

[JakeFF]

Thanks Natty..yes wood was prevously...varnished..but have sanded it down to new fresh wood.

[Markymark]

Sorry ,I do not recall...."Petitte"(sp?) ,maybe? What he did was ,one coat of that sealer...a light sanding(very light),and one or two coats. I think the secret is using a very fine grit sandpaper betwen coats. Good luck.

[scruffy_fish]

Follow Marky's advice. Must sand between very coat!

I would use any good marine spar varnish. Spar has tongue oil in the mix which will help the wood and finish from drying out. It also is the best UV protection. Don’t use Urethane it won’t stand up. (I know I’ll get some flaming on that statement.)

Three coats will get you looking good from raw wood, but 5 will put you in the upper class finishes. Don't be afraid to add a good stain first, like Min-Wax “neutral” it will make the wood grain jump out at you. Test a small out of the way spot or piece of scrap first.

Seal the wood after stain has dried for a day. Seal with 50-50 diluted varnish. Wait a day and sand with 200 grit garnet paper. Be sure all the dust is wiped off after sanding. Finish with top coats of with full strength varnish and sand between coats using finer and finer grit papers. Always wait until the varnish is completely dry before you sand it. Also, protect the work area with a cover to keep the air born dust off your finish.

Spread the varnish with a good hair bristle brush, useing criss-crossed strokes. Keep your area dust free!!!!!

Sounds like a lot of work? It is, but you’ll be happy with the results when you finish.
Good luck…

[JakeFF]

Thanks Scruffy..Marky...this info helped alot....it's guys like you that keep me coming back to Reel Time....someone always has an answer. I will let you know how it comes out....or try to get some pics of it when finished...thanks guys...have a great weekend.

[tbn43]

i was about to post the same question about my teak.

In the past I have used teak cleaner and teak oil and not sanded. It looks good for a month and then fades.

A frined recommend Cetol. It apprantly is not a glossy varnish but is a preservative that has UV protection and last a full season.

Does anyone have any thoughts?

[Stormin']

Hi Jake,

There are many products out there but I've found that Epifanes is by far the best for duribility and uv protection.

I use the clear coat gloss and lightly sand between each coat. I would also recommend using a tack cloth to pick up the excess dust. Epifanes also has a non-sand version which is awesome for use on the build up coats (if time is a concern). Even if I use the non-sand, I'll always use the clear gloss for the finish coats.

Anyway, sanding and prep. is always 90% of the job.

Good luck! I'm sure it will turn out great!

[scruffy_fish]

tbn,
Teak and Mahogony are like apples and oranges, completely different care required for each wood, Teak has a natural oil in its makeup that is released through heat and UV exposer. Teak needs to have these oils replenished to look good and last. Some products are better than others, but you don't want to seal teak like you would Mahogony. Do a web search for teak care you'll find some interesting information.

[DaleH]

Jake:

As the pictures below show, I have a ton of teak and mahogany on my boat and just added more brightwork this season, as I added a custom 2nd steering/control station to the rear of the helm cabin so I can control the boat from the cockpit.

FWIW, for durability and longevity, the best teak/mahogany finish BAR NONE as tested by Powerboat Reports, is Honey Teak" by Signature paints, see: http://www.signaturefinish.com/index.php?topic=Honey+Teak . It has been tested to last 3+ full boating SEASONS in FL sun exposure ... but the mix is a pain-in-the-arse of 8 parts paint to 2 parts catalyst to 4 parts flow fluid ... forget that :eek: !

So far, I've had the best results with Cetol Marine "Light" followed by overcoats of their Cetol Clear Gloss finish. The "light" version of the Cetol is less orangey than their usual product and it allows the grain to show through bright and clear. I also wash all teak with acetone before applying, sometimes twice if really oily. I put on 3 coats of marine "light" stain and will only buff between coats "if" the finish gets pebbled for whatever reason. I haven't had success wet-sanding with Cetol like I have with other fine wood finishes. I then follow the Cetol "light" with 3-4 coats of the gloss finish. For fancy areas, I'll lightly buff between the 2nd/3rd and 3rd/4th coats using a green scotch-brite pad. When done, from 3' away, you can't even tell on what pieces I used mahogany or I used teak on ... and with teak 3x the price of premium mahogany, it can add up!

If applied per their instructions ... all coats within a 2 week period, you'll get a beautiful, hard, durable finish that will last 2 to 3 NE seasons. What you need to do is re-do the gloss overcoat to protect it before that finish gets compromised ... never let any section of the wood start to gray or turn black. I go over each piece carefully before, during, and at the end of each season, takes but seconds. Anything that needs a new topcoat of gloss gets the scotchbrite rubdown and 2-3 new coats - I can do a rubdown while on the mooring in seconds and apply a topcoat gloss in minutes.

Both Cetol products go on very fast, thinner coats are better than thick ones (like most paints & finishes) and I only use "premium" disposable foam brushes. Paul @ Ipswich Outboard sells them for ~$0.50 (< ½ the price of West Marine @ $1.16 each ... robbers) for the 2” “high density” foam premium brush, so I buy them from Paul in bulk. DO NOT use cheap foam brushes … if the foam looks really pourous, do not use them!

At last count, I think I have 43 pieces of brightwork on my Lady, but luckily, many of them are inside where 3 seasons later they still look like new. I personally don't advise using the Cetol finish, either the "light" or their regular product (both are really stains) without their gloss overcoat. Guys I know that do, have to strip/sand and reapply every year ... to me that's a waste. All I can tell you is that wherever I go, boaters, even sailboaters with yacht brightwork up the kazoo, always comment on my boat's varnish. Ha ... if they only knew ;) , because those I know that make fine wood boats for a living apply up to 10 coats of varnish for a true marine finish. I feel I get the same look for less work and I get more seasons out of my efforts than they do.

http://home.comcast.net/~reel-rascals1/LadyC/Pulpit.jpg

https://home.comcast.net/~reel-rascals1/LadyC/Galley.jpg

https://home.comcast.net/~reel-rascals1/LadyC/Riggahs.JPG

[Markymark]

Gotta love them "Parkers"...sweet looking boat!

[JakeFF]

Thanks Reel...that was a lot of help..with some more great ideas...I think I should have done this in the off season not now...rolls my eyes. Your boat looks great Reel...that is one hell of a good looking ride you have there...I know the hard work you put into..but it paid off..great looking.

How did you make out with that boat trailer?...hope it worked out for you.

Thanks again for the help here.

Bob H