Console coming loose

[Gymnogene]

I noticed the other day that my console is coming loose form the front. Upon inspection, I found that the screws have opened up the holes in the deck just enough to not be getting a bite. The boat is an 1988 wahoo, so it's been around for a while. I don't think i can get a wood backing under there due to the construction. Should I just fill in with some epoxy or similar and add another bracket? I'll have to see if I can't get a backing under there as I'm sure that would be the best way to go. Thanks in advance.

[detra]

Note: this is a non-expert opinion...

However, I have had the console off my whaler a number of times. I don't know about the wahoo but on the whaler there are wood inserts under the fiberglass decking. If so, then I would fill hole with slow cure epoxy (waterproof) redrill and reinsert screw OR replace current screw with one thats larger again I would coat screw with epoxy before insertion.

good luck

[maineguideman]

Also a non expert opinion

There is a chemical you can pour in the screw holes that will stop any wood rot and harden any wood that has rotted. Then I think a product called Marine Tex is used to fill the screw Holes. After it has cured (Its a two part white substance. ) You can drill new screw holes and run in new stainless screws. Hope that helps Both products are available at West Marine

[mansfieldsign]

I just read about a deck repair on a stripped hole. The hole was enlarged and a toggle type screw(replace with stainless) was inserted. That way the toggle expansion will apply the support pressure below the deck. Then you could fill with a product type epoxy as mentioned above. Also, you could repair the hole and run a bead of 5200 along the entire bottom of the console which might help distribute the pressure points along the console base rather than a particular fastener.
I have a feeling the deck is naturally flexing and working against the screw.
Is it in the area of a console seat or baitwell?
Hope I helped alittle.

[Gymnogene]

Thanks for the replies. I looked at using toggle screws the other day (spent some time in home depot) and looked at the wood fill products. I think I may go the safe route and try a combo of them.

Mansfield-It's starting from the front of the console and gets better as you go back. No real openeings in the deck in that area to get inside it.

[mansfieldsign]

Gymnogene,
If it's at all possible, checkout some of the marine hardware/fastening products offered by Jamestown Distributors. They are very good to deal with and have offered technical assistance to me in the past. Prompt too. They stock hard to find marine grade stainless as well as bronze hardware, bolts, etc. Good Luck, www.jamestowndistributors.com :)

[dusty]

If it were me (professional boatbuilder here) I would follow the original advise of filling the holes with epoxy. Instead of going through the hassle of redtapping the holes, I would go right away to putting the screws back into the holes that are filled with goop. This creates an "epoxy bolt" which is very strong. First you should fill the holes with unthickened epoxy, then go back and force in some thickened epoxy (thickened with microballoons and silica to a mollases consistency). I've used this method to fasten down highly loaded traveller tracks on yachts, and I've never had a problem. One thing you might want to do it take out the console and try to get some heat and air around the holes; there is a good possibility that there is some moisture down in there, and this could cause some bonding problems for you. If you want to go a little bit more belt and sospenders, you could fill the holes with epoxy (just keep drizzling it in there, it will seep into all the voids below, so you'll need to keep refilling the holes). Once that hardens, some, if not all, of the holes will still show that they have some more filling to do. At this point you could drizzle some more unthickened epoxy into there, or your could thicken some up with Cabosil (same as WEST 406 colloidial silica) until it's at about mayonaise consistency and force it into the holes with a putty knife. Now, after everthing has hardened, tap the holes and sand the bonding surfaces on the boat floor and on the bottom of the console itself. Now apply a liberal bead of 5200 on the console bottom and refasten with the screws. Once the 5200 sets up, the screws are doing far less work. Also, I would stay away from home depot for solutions...stick to epoxies and other marine adhesives like 5200, you'll thank yourself if you do.

[mansfieldsign]

Dusty, A trick I've used to help fill in some holes with thickened epoxy to keep it in the void. This method might come in handy some time.

Cut a small disk out of some brass window screen.

Tie on a piece of mono line in the center of the disk and push disk/line through the hole with screw driver.

Pull the mono line back so that the disk opens up against the bottom of the
hole. I twist the line around a pencil to keep the screen tight. (Like a well bucket if you will.)

Now pour in the epoxy and repair as per your instructions.

[dusty]

Hmmm, that's interesting. The only thing about it that I don't like is that you are now sort of cheating yourself with regards to completely filling the void with epoxy. Maybe I'm interpreting this the wrong way, but aren't you now using the screen to prevent the goop from oozing down into all of the void space below? I personally don't mind the hassle of ensuring the hole is completely filled...it's piece of mind. One other thing I forgot to mention in my original response is that you could also just bed the holes with 5200, along with bonding the console to the floor with 5200. That should work ok...although I would go with epoxy in the holes anyways.

[mansfieldsign]

The epoxy tends to flow into the mesh and icicle. It also tends to flow along the under sides. But as you suggest, you want that epoxy bolt. This is just something, depending on the cavity situation that has worked for me on a couple of backyard projects.
Care, Phil

[Bob Parsons]

I think the screen idea is for holes that go all the way through a deck where the void is your bilge. That would take a lot of epoxy to fill. :D

[dusty]

yes....good point. The up side of course is that you could eliminate bilge hassles completely by just getting rid of it right? ;)

[Gymnogene]

Well, I did the epoxy bolt method today. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the replies.