Canoe and electric trolling motor?

[hoodzies]

I am considering putting an electric trolling motor on my 15ft canoe (double ended, not sq. stern). I would probably go with the lowest power Riptide motor since I fish in saltwater bays and estuaries (backwaters of Piscataqua and York rivers) primarily.
Does anyone have a similar setup? If so, how does it work? I'm more interested in feedback from those that have the motor on a double ended canoe, not sq. stern.

Does the motor mounted on a motor bracket cause the canoe to list to one side?

Can I make reasonable headway (better than paddling) using a 36lb thrust trolling motor mounted on a motor bracket?

How much range can I expect with a good deep cycle battery?

Do I really need a saltwater trolling motor vs. the regular since I'm in saltwater mostly?

Any thoughts or comments appreciated.

Mike

[WeeHooker]

Hi Mike, I've had a little experience w this type of set-up. Allot w electrics and small outboards in general. Here's my 2 cents FWIW.
First, since the motor is light and mounted reasonably close to the center line near the stern seat, you won't notice any list. ( Maybe while getting in/out.) Your weight and the weight of the battery ( or two_) will negate this. You'll tend to sit slightly away fromt eh motor anyway so it all ballances out.
Second, a 36# motor ( about 2.25 hp) will never plane you but will push your canoe a fast as it is designed to go ( with a fully charged battery.) Expect 4-6 knots on calm water w a full battery. A bigger motor, unless it has a bigger prop won't buy you anything unless your bucking a strong headwind W a fully charged battery. Now for the bad news. Because you'll be forced to sit in the stern, your going to need to keep the bow weighted w 50-100 # or so. If you don't your going to have a hard time controlling the canoe on anything but a windless day. (due to a shortened waterline and weathevane effects.) the more wind, the more weight you'll need to keep teh bow down.
A series 31 or pair of series 27 batteries mounted forward would fix this but adds considerable weight and a wireing project. ( a bucket of water helps as well.) You'll be glad for teh extra control and reserve battery life when the wind kicks up though.
FWIW, a new series 27 battery will only last 1-2 hrs if your running flat our @ 36#. ( In calm air/water, you won't need but 20# to cruise. ) It doen't die, just delivers less power as the voltage drops. The problem being, It ALWAYS seems that the voltage and thrust is lagging as the wind kicks up. I've cursed electrics more than a few times for this. You can set up an electric to pull vice pull but that's a whole other discussion.
FWIW, for about the same $ , I'd opt for a good used 1.5-3 hp gas engine . It will be more noisy but doesn't run out of power when you need it most. ( Allot easier to haul as well.) They have some real beauties that weigh in @ well less than 30 # . I personally have a 28# 3.3 hp Mariner that will run for 4+ hours on 28 oz of fuel. Cost was $550 brand new but you see some used 18-28# 1.5-3 hp outboards around for $100-$300. ( 36# Riptide Electric motor, batteries and wire are going to run you $300- $400 anyway.)I've used small gas motors on a 17' double ended AL canoe ( weighted w water in the bow) with good results. I powered to get there and paddle to fish quietly. How good a motor works on your particular canoe depends allot on the hull design ) rocker, keel, beam, depth ect);

Lastly, don't overlook a good 240-260 Cm double bladed kayak paddle or set of center mounted oar locks. Either will give you allot more speed and control on the longer hauls.
hth
Dave

[PaulinNH]

Mike:

I have a 15' Old Town Discovery and used a very small (17lb thrust??) trolling motor on a bracket for a few years. Id say a 30-34 lb thrust would be plenty unless you have some strong tides to move against... as far as a Riptide or other saltwater model...I wouldn't bother. For $135 bucks you can get a 34lb thrust MinnKota Endura. You are most likely taking it on and off each trip anyway, and you are not getting a foot pedal version (assuming) with exposed wires... Id just stick to the basic 'freshwater' motor and give it a quick 30sec wash/rinse after each use. At $135, if you get 3-5 years out of it you're doing darn good!! If you're new to trolling motors and deep cycle batteries make sure to charge them after every use to avoid memory. Also - when I was alone I used to sit in the bow seat backward to put my wieght more in the middle of the canoe to avoid having to add exta weight. Im not sure of the legality of having your "bow" numbers suddenly "stern" numbers but I never had a problem. I made my own bracket (copied the old town bracket design) which clamped the upper piece with the mounting block to a lower piece under the gunwales...I simply made two seperate lower pieces with widths for each location.

Paul in NH

[hoodzies]

Thanks for the feedback. I was looking at trolling motors today, and I came to the conclusion that I'm going to probably go with the MinnKota Endura. It's light, plenty powerful, and if I wash it off, should last long enough. I just can't see paying for a trolling motor that costs about 1/3 of the cost of my canoe. It may not last as long, but I don't go out that many times anyways.

-Mike

[Bob Parsons]

I've used a 1.75 hp on a 15' coleman canoe, all the power I need, even in wind and current.

If you canoe doesn't have any poorly placed tharts, I agree with sitting in the bow seat facing the stern. I do that in most of my canoes when I'm solo.

While with the electric you can get away with clamping it to the gunnel. The boat will track better and it will be more comfortable for you to use if you use a motor bracket.

[ACE]

The hardware will rust on the f/w models. Just keep washing and WD-40'ing. Eventually I guess the rust and corrosion will eat up the motor. Then you get a newone. I'm on my 2nd season with one and did not feel the expense of a powerful s/w model was worth it.

[hoodzies]

I don't want to pay for the s/w model either. I figure if I rinse in freshwater after each use and apply wd40 liberally that it should last a few years. I won't be using it each week either, probably a 1/2 dozen times per year in s/w.

-Mike

[FoRestoration]

It was as an afterthought that I decided to consult forums for information on canoe trolling motors...I have already ordered a bowmounted Minnkota PowerDrive V2 40 lb. thrust motor (48") for my 17' Grumman square stern Standard Weight canoe. Why nobody offers a remotely operated option for transom mounts has escaped me. I am currently visualizing one of two configurations:
1)Mount Minnkota to bow, along with battery, and run remote towards stern where balance is achieved, letting motor 'pull' the canoe...
2)Create a perimeter frame at stern that 'finishes' the gunwhale lines, and creates a mounting location for the "stern" mounted motor, along with battery, and then running remote control towards bow where balance is achieved.
I have run a 2.5 hp Evinrued (both it and Grumman are 1975 vintage), but I'm a big enough guy that balance fore and aft was difficult to achieve when I was running solo.
My questions? Is 40# thrust overkill or still underkill...I expect to run mostly lakes, hoping for all day primary use...had planned to run single deep cycle marine battery, but have been hearing advice to run two stout 6 volt marine batteries in series, for increased running time.
Will I be happy with my 40#er?
-Don

[FoRestoration]

[
Lastly, don't overlook a good 240-260 Cm double bladed kayak paddle or set of center mounted oar locks. Either will give you allot more speed and control on the longer hauls.
hth
Dave[/QUOTE]

Dave-
Having had sea kayak and their paddling system, I wondered if they'd be effective with canoes (especially with models having lots of 'tumblehome'). I've just purchased some Carlisle kayak paddles, with T-handle adaptors, which will allow me use them either as canoe paddles or kayak paddles...eager to get them out at nearby lake...I'm thinking I'll miss the enclosed kayak deck, spray skirt...;>)
-Don