by Mark Cahill, Jim Bender of Lower Forty Outfitters in Worcester with a great flats catch. Photo by Bob Peck |
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| Copyright ©1999 Reel-Time | Northeast Flats Fishing on the CheapWorld Class Flats Fishing on a Shoe String Budget. . . |
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Click here to view enlarged versions of the photos.
Capt. Charles Crue of Newburyport, MA, on a busman's holiday. .
Discuss striped bass flats fishing tactics on the Reel-Talk BBS: ...and don't forget to check Mark Cahill's weekly contributions to the Metropolitan Boston FishWire reports!
Fighting a fish in shallow water.
Miles of flats. Note the clarity of the water.
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Standing in water just slightly over his knees,
the angler squints as the reflection of the bright July sun reflects off the tops of the wavelets.
His head and eyes move steadily scanning the water around him for any sign of fish. He spots
a possible shape and cocks his arm quickly preparing for a back cast, then relaxes as he
realizes he was about to cast to the shadow of a wave. He shakes his head, then continues his
search, his practiced eye sorting the variations in the bottom from the fleeting images cast by
the waves. His eyes stop and fix on three greenish torpedoes sliding silently from left to
right. His pulse quickens as he moves through his back cast, bring the line forward to drop
the fly softly a couple of yards in front of the fish. He strips the line slowly, then, noticing the larger of the three fish breaking from the
group, he gives two quick pulls on the line. At the end of the second, the line comes taut and
he sweeps the rod tip, while pulling hard against the line. The water boils around the
fish, as the rod loads deeply, line streaming off it at a breakneck pace.
Soon he is releasing the first of several large bass that he would catch during the course of the day. Daylight? July? Striped Bass? The three just don't seem to go together. Even as a youngster, I knew that big bass were nocturnal creatures and that summer days were best spent chasing bluefish, or better yet, resting up for an evening fishing the rips. As I've aged, I've found that the best reason to learn the rules, is so they can be broken. When it comes to New England saltwater fly fishing, no place breaks the rules like Monomoy Island, and the lessons learned there can be applied to other New England flats. First off, there are numerous spots along the New England coast that offer the chance to sightcast to striped bass. Cranes Beach at the mouth of the Essex River, The Brewster Flats, and Barnstable are all prime destinations for this type of fishing. Personally, I fish the flats at Monomoy in Chatham, and this article will specifically deal with fishing there, although the techniques can be used at any of the other locations. Striped bass appear to be drawn to certain flats. What is it about these flats that make them more attractive than others? First off, the stripers prefer flats which offer access to deeper, cooler water. The fish are very skittish in shallow water, so it's only natural that they would want to leave their avenue of retreat open. Also key is the presence of bait. That's what really draws the fish onto the flats. Look for the presence of sand eels and crabs particularly. Actually, Monomoy is two separate islands, South Monomoy and North Monomoy, in addition to including the southern section of South Beach, which is currently attached tenuously to Chatham. The warm, sandy flats inside South Beach and around the islands offer a tremendous shallow water adventure for the intrepid angler who's willing to bend, and, on occasion, break the rules. For those how do, the rewards can be tremendous. Monomoy offers a truly inexpensive fishing alternative. You don't have to shell out $300.00 for a chartered flats skiff and captain, if you're willing to spend the day up to your waist in water. The benefits of fishing from a flats skiff are obvious, but many of us just can't afford it. Personally, I fished Monomoy no less than 20 days last season and besides my travel costs (gas, coffee and cigarettes, mostly), I spent $10.00 per trip for the ferry ride out. In the process, I got to know Capt.Keith Lincoln, the captain of the Rip Ryder, a funny, likeable guy who loves fishing and spends more time on the water in a season than most of us will spend in a life time. The basic drill for Monomoy is simple. Call Capt. Lincoln the night before at (508)945-5450 and tell him you want to go out fly fishing. He'll normally tell you to be at the beach behind the Monomoy Island National Wildlife Refuge Headquarters on Morris Island in Chatham at 8 a.m. Personally, I always get there a little early and fish the beach until he's ready to go. He pulls his 25' Parker right into the beach where the anglers, or birders (Monomoy is famous for it's rare sea birds) board. Then he takes you to either South Beach or North Monomoy Island. Lincoln is very forth coming with fishing information. He's not a fly fisherman (at least yet, I'm working on that) but he is a commercial striper fisherman. Smart anglers hang on his every word to find the answers to the important questions. A little time spent talking with him will jump start your trip. He spends enough time around fly fishermen that he's got a more thorough understanding of terms and gear involved than many anglers. The GearPersonally, I go by the K.I.S.S. (keep it simple, stupid) philosophy. I keep the gear to a minimum, because I'm going to have to carry everything I bring for the day. If the weather's warm, I wet wade in Supplex shorts. You'd be surprised how much energy it can take walking around in waders all day. From there, I bring a pair of pliers, a folding knife, a box of flies, a spool of pre-tied leaders with tippet, Polaroids, some sunscreen, a wide brimmed hat, my favorite rod and a reel loaded with intermediate line. I wear a long sleeved Supplex shirt, in a tan or olive color (no neon colors to spook fish, please). Add a pair of comfortable flats boots, that are already broken in, and you've got the basic ensemble. That's it. No water jugs, no 5 course lunches, only the fishing essentials. To avoid dehydration, I force down a half a gallon of water in the 45 minutes before I get to the boat. I leave the rest on ice in the car for when I get back. You're generally on the water until 4 p.m. and most people can make it that long at least without food. Obviously, you need a rod that can put the wood to an enraged striper, with an accompanying reel that's got a smooth drag, plenty of backing and can handle some abuse. Your going to get sand in it, without fail. I use a 9 wt. Sage RPX, with a Phlueger Supreme that's 15 years old (at least). You don't necessarily need the best gear, only the gear that will get the job done. For line, I use an intermediate sink. You could use a floating line, but in New England, you're better off with sinking line, so why buy something you may only use in isolated circumstances. Shooting head lines work well, but if you use one, you've got to carry a stripping basket and there's always the potential to get a knot in the backing at just the wrong moment. If you've got to spend some money, spend it on a monocore line that the fish won't see in the water. I attribute the mid-summer rash of disinterested follows most anglers get to the visibility of the line in the clear water. I'm using a Lee Wulff Triangle Taper TTSWMC 10I. As important as lines are, leader and tippet are even more critical. I frequently will use a leader as long a 12' which tapers from 30 lb. test down to 8 lb. fluorocarbon. If I'm having trouble with finicky fish, I drop down to 6 lb. test. On many occasions last season I talked with anglers who refused to drop down to light leaders. "I can't untie any wind knots in that stuff." or "It's too tough to tie knots in that stuff." were the usual reasons. The net effect was often that they didn't catch fish. In one memorable instance while I was fishing with Capt. Charlie Crue (on a busman's holiday), one pair of anglers left a spot I'd suggested to them, fishless, only to watch the two of us move in and nail fish after fish as they stood forlornly waiting for the ferry to take them back to the mainland, less than a hundred yards away. Okay, we've all heard from the experts that the only leader material you need for fishing in New England is a straight section of 15 lb. test. It's the rule, and many fly rodders live by it to the point that they don't even carry any other material. I often get funny looks when I pull eight or more spools of material out of my vest. Believe me, I wouldn't bother tying my own tapered leaders if I wasn't 100% convinced that they're needed. The tapered leader is used in the Florida Keys to ensure the fly turns over properly. In many New England situations, this isn't critical. You're going to wait for the fly to sink, during which time the leader often straightens out. The water generally isn't that clear, so we're not worried about the fish spotting the fly line, or the splash of the fly on the water. At Monomoy, in the shallow water, you've got to get the fly out in front of the fish, so that it when it is stripped, it will be in the strike zone, generally about two yards in front of her (big bass are all cows). You need the long leader to get the line away from the fish's field of view. I've also seen many fish veer off when the fly slaps the water. A properly tied leader will roll out allowing the fly to land softly. I try to carry at least 4 pre-tied leaders, just in case I need to replace them due to fraying during the course of the day. A word to the wise, don't tie fluorocarbon directly to regular monofilament, or you'll have a weak knot. Use a loop to loop connection, which will also make it easier to tie on a new section as needed. The fly selection is simple. Clousers in olive/white, chartruese/white, epoxy sand eel imitations and mylar tube flies. The top three baits on the flats are sand eels, followed by sand eels, closely followed by sand eels. Crab patterns are important, too. You need to be sure you've got a crab that will sink properly, and isn't too large. The first instinct of a fleeing crab is to burrow into the sand. Instead of speeding your retrieve when you think the fish has spotted the bait, stop stripping and let it drop! You've got to be able to spot the fish take the crab because you probably won't feel it. Look for a telltale roll or a change in attitude against the bottom. I've found the best presentation for a crab is a spot where you can get a drift in the current that will intersect with the fish, possibly over the edge of a bar. Stripers will definitely eat large crabs. I've seen them in stomachs, but the problem with larger patterns is that they tend to splash too much. I've used a Merkin that hit the water like a stone every time. It's a great fly for redfish, but a rotten flats striper fly. I do like the Orvis Permit Crab pattern, or the small crabs known by the enticing title "N. E. Flats Crab." Where To FishAll flats areas are not created equal. I generally look for areas where there are rolling sandbars, often with as little as six inches of difference in bottom depth from the surrounding area. Combine these with a moving current and you've got a potential hot spot. The next key is to locate schools of sand eels. Other hot spots include channel edges, areas near grass piles, and pot holes. Also pay attention to the holes left by the clammers, as the bass love to root around here. Generally, you're best served to blind cast channel edges and other likely areas early in the morning, or perhaps fish the surf on the front side of South Beach. The early morning sun is lower in the sky and generally makes spotting fish problematic. By 10:30 a.m., the sun is high enough that it penetrates through, rather than refracting off, the surface. This angle of refraction is so important to sightfishing that some anglers now tote a step ladder out with them to enhance their ability to spot fish. To me, the idea of carrying a step stool or ladder is anathema to the stripped down, essentials only, way I like to fish. Once the sun is high enough, you can start looking. It will take a while to get used to spotting fish, if it's a good day. On a bad day, even the most eagle eyed old salt could stumble over a fish before he spots it. Generally, you want a day with unobstructed sun, low wind and a noon time high tide. High tide will flood the main flats on the back of North Monomoy (Common Flats) with water. These flats are bright, white sand which makes spotting fish a much easier task. On the occasions when you have bad weather, all is not lost. Try blind casting the channel edges and the sand bars. Particularly, the waters near Capt. Lincoln's drop off points have been productive for me. On a sunny day, I'd rather forget my fly box than my Polaroid glasses. It's amazing to see people fishing the flats with top shelf rod and reel combos, the best in brand name gear, and a pair of $10.00 Polaroid glasses. By spending as little as $20.00 more, you can get a pair of glasses similar to the Flying Fisherman's I use. There are plenty of other good glasses out there, so don't scrimp here. I go so far as to keep not one, but two extra pairs in the car. One is a set of clip ons, in case I have a contact lens problem and am forced to use my glasses. This part of the game has more in common with hunting than fishing. The best advice I can give comes directly from that sport. When deer hunting in the woods, you look for horizontal lines that are out of place with the prevalent vertical lines of the trees. When trying to spot fish, look for movement that goes against the expected, such as shapes that move up, or across the current. Look for the edges of fins, shadows on bottom and greenish, almost glassy shapes. Keep an eye out for white flashes, as the bass roll on their side to dig in the sand. Striped bass blend in very well with the surroundings, literally reflecting their environment. Don't forget to scan a full 360 degrees around you. Inevitably the fish will sneak in from behind you, spooking just as you spot them. Obvious signs of feeding fish, such as working birds, splashing bait and swirls require investigation. When sight fishing, try not to waste too much time blind casting. If you cast 70' to 1 o'clock, undoubtedly you'll spot a fish 50' out at 9 o'clock. It's a karma thing. If you're fishing with a partner, use the time tested clock method of identifying fish locations. 12 o'clock is directly in front of you (or him), six is behind you and the rest lays out like the face of a clock. Then all you have to do is say (don't yell, fish can hear very well on the flats) "1 o'clock, 60' in front of you!" and your partner should spot the fish. I try to work down along the current, especially when it is flowing from south to north. It's easier wading this direction and the prevailing winds in the area are from the southeast. This keeps the sun at my back, so that my best cast is also in the direction I am best able to spot fish. It also gets the long walks out of the way early, so I can spend the day dropping back down the flats to the pickup point. We are NOT AloneYou're likely to run into gray seals, particularly if you fish the South Beach flats. Nothing says "lunch" to a seal like a fly fisherman. I've had four or five of them follow me for over an hour, hoping to pick off a tasty striper for the noon meal. Luckily, I've never lost a fish to them, but there are plenty of stories of reels stripped down to the backing by the scavengers. These aren't your cute, cuddly harbor seals. Gray seals are huge 300 to 400 pound creatures that aren't afraid of fishermen. As you wade, they will occasionally swim as close as five feet away. When they start to get too close, I pound the water with the flat of my hand and yell. Surprisingly, the bass don't seem to mind the seals. Some of my best catches have come with several seals swimming close by. If one takes a bass while you've got him hooked, my best advice is to clamp down on the reel face, hoping to break the tippet or the leader. Fly lines are too expensive to lose and it'll probably end your day, unless you brought a spare. Now I'm going to give you some advice that I don't always follow myself. Fish with a partner. You'll get more shots at fish with two sets of eyes and you'll be a whole lot safer. On those times that I do fish alone, I try to tag along to the same general area as other fishermen. I tell them before I do it and I never encroach on their space. There's plenty of water out there and the last thing I'd want is to be remembered as a sore point in what may have been the trip of a lifetime for another angler. The fishing at Monomoy is catch and release, not by regulation, by necessity. Unless you're carrying a cooler, there's no place to keep a fish cold. The last ferry pick up of the day is at 4 p.m. By that time, you'll be ready to go in. That may not be the end of it, though. There are bass to be caught along the channel edge at the Morris Island drop off point. On one memorable day, while fishing with Reel-Timers Chris Chan and Gary Morrisette, Lincoln stayed out late, allowing us to fish off the boat to blitzing hordes of schoolies. Monomoy isn't always Eden. If you fish it enough, particularly in the heat of the summer, you're going to get skunked. There have been many days where I spotted 30-50 fish, got casts off to 20 of those and had 10 good follows, without getting a single hit. It can be incredibly frustrating. This is the time of year when a combination of tiny flies, long, well tied leaders, with the lightest of fluorocarbon tippets and a clear monocore line will make the difference. I tie two small flies, one of which is a pearlescent mylar tube fly and the other which is a simple sandeel imitation. It's an easy body creation with a hank of olive buck tail, a little white buck tail an olive colored top, white bottom, with a mini-dumbell and doll eyes lashed to the front. Still, just getting the chance to spot 15-20 stripers in shallow water during the course of the day is enough to keep me happy. I'd still be in love with Monomoy, even if I knew it was impossible to catch the fish. Mark Cahill is the Editorial Director of Reel-Time and also the Regional Editor of the Metropolitan Boston FishWire report. He lives in Worcester, MA and spends a whole bunch of time driving to the coasts of Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Monomoy Island ResourcesTackle ShopsOrvis Fishing the Cape Wading GuidesGeorge Ryan Charter BoatsCapt. Kris Jop, Come Fly With Me Charters1-877-266-3359 Monomoy Island FerryRip Ryder, Capt. Keith Lincoln
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